HISTORIAL INSIGHTS

Is the Bow Motif Here to Stay?

Bows are having a BIG moment in fashion and jewelry, so it’s time to set the record straight and say it for the vintage lovers in the back—the bows have always been “that girl.” And they aren’t going away anytime soon!

History of Ribbons And Bows in Fashion

Ribbons and bows rose to popularity during the Enlightenment period. In late 16th-century France, men wore the lovelock hairstyle, in which one long lock of hair was braided over the left shoulder or chest (the heart side) and tied at the end with a bow or ribbon to show devotion to a romantic partner.

By the 17th century, bows were no longer worn only by men—French noblewomen adopted the fontange hairstyle, a decorative linen cap adorned with ribbon and lace. The hairstyle was named after the Sun King’s (Louis XVI) mistress, Marie Angélique of Fontanges, who famously improvised a ribbon hairstyle with ribbon torn from her dress. 

While ribbons in men's hairstyles fell out of vogue, today’s bow tie can be traced back to cravats of 17th-century France. King Louis XIII, inspired by Croatian mercenaries who wore scarves around their necks, introduced the cravat to high society. The motif began popping up in architecture, clothing, jewelry, and everything in between.

About a century later, Queen Marie Antoinette (the original mega influencer) sparked another major moment for the beloved bow, as they were one of her most favored accessories.

In the 1940s teenage girls adopted the use of bows to convey romantic meanings, similar to the lovelock hairstyle of 16th and 17th-century France: “Teenage girls in the 1940s wore bows in their hair to reveal details about their love lives; whether she was “out to get herself a man,” “deeply in love,” or “not interested in men” at all depended on the placement of the girl’s bow, as documented in a 1944 publication of LIFE Magazine” (Westbrook, 2023).

Anthony van Dyck
Henri II de Lorraine, 1634
Oil on canvas; 204.6 x 123.8 cm (80 9/16 x 48 3/4 in)
Washington DC: National Gallery of Art, 1947.14.1. Gift of Cornelius Vanderbilt Whitney
National Gallery of Art

Caravaggio
Judith Beheading Holofernes, ca. 1598–1599 or 1602
Oil on canvas
145 cm × 195 cm (57 in × 77 in)
Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica at Palazzo Barberini, Rome

Elisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun
Self-Portrait with Cerise Ribbons ca. 1782
Oil on canvas
25 1/2 × 21 1/4 in. (64.8 × 54 cm)
Kimbell Art Museum, Fort Worth, Texas

Giovanni Battista Moroni
Isotta Brembati, ca. 1555–56
Oil on canvas
63 x 45 1/4 in. (160 x 115 cm)
Fondazione Museo di Palazzo Moroni, Bergamo – Lucretia Moroni Collection

Giovanni Battista Moroni
Isotta Brembati, 1555
Oil on canvas
63 × 45 3/10 in | 160 × 115 cm
Royal Academy of Arts

Anthony van Dyck
Henrietta Maria with Sir Jeffrey Hudson, 1633
Oil on canvas. 219.1 x 134.8 cm
National Gallery of Art, Washington, Samuel H. Kress Collection

Albert Lynch (Peruvian, 1860–1950)
The white ribbon
oil on canvas
61 x 46 cm. (24 x 18.1 in.)

Jean-Jacques Henner (1829–1905)
Portrait of a Young Girl with a Bow in Her ca. 1870
Oil on canvas
Height: 53.6 cm (21.1 in); width: 40.6 cm (15.9 in)
Private collection

The Current State of Bows

Recently, bows are experiencing a renaissance, appearing in clothing, nail art, makeup, and hairstyles. The resurgence is likely due to nostalgia and a desire for simplicity and romanticism. A bow is functional at the very least, and a perfectly tied bow, however delicate and fleeting, reveals we took the extra step to show we care. Whether tying a bow around a present or a string around our finger as a reminder of something or someone, a bow conveys a special bond or connection.

For vintage jewelry enthusiasts, bows blend timeless elegance with contemporary fashion. Their simplicity, symbolism, and versatility ensure their continued presence in jewelry collections. As a favorite among designers and collectors, bows are a lasting design element in fine jewelry that deserves a permanent spot in your jewelry box.

Final Thoughts

Bows are more than just a fleeting fashion statement; they represent a sweet innocence and a link to the past. As they continue to inspire and captivate, bows have and will always hold a special place in jewelry and fashion.